The past month or so, I’ve been remiss in my duties as tita
to my three nieces and one nephew. Sunday lunch has been a tradition in
the family, until recently when I became preoccupied with my own
activities. To make up for the past weeks, I decided to take everyone
out to dinner at Adarna Food and Culture. I have heard great things
about the place but there were always other interesting restaurants to
try (some of them very disappointing). Since Adarna is located near my
brother’s house, I thought maybe this is the time to go.
The elegant flourish in their logo was a sign that the owners had
taste. I quietly savored the arched entrances and covered walkways that
partially cloistered the open patio. I noted the colored glass panels on
the doors, the same ones used by my sister-in-law in their renovated
home. The capiz windows used as wall panels, old newspapers
encased in glass, paintings by Filipino artists, the intricately carved
chairs and tables–everything was tastefully done.
The food they serve is Filipino heirloom cuisine. The chef and owners painstakingly dug up old specialties through research and interviews and kept their cooking methods as close to the original as possible. We ordered the sigarillas salad (P154, a good start), adobong Batangas a la Adarna (P176, shared by the architect-granddaughter of a prominent family from Batangas City), dinakdakan (P134, an Ilocano take on sisig. This version was hot), pancit 1913 (P280), chicken relleno (P448, from a 1940s recipe book), kaldereta antigo and Batanes yellow rice (its color derived from locally grown turmeric). I particularly enjoyed the dinakdakan and adobo, but I must admit none of the dishes stood out and “sang.” Still, I was quite taken by the place that I embraced even the good though lackluster fare. In fact, I’m willing to go back a second time.
Adarna Food and Culture, 119 Kalayaan Avenue, QC. A few establishments away from Trellis. Phone no. (632) 9268712; mobile (63) 917-9618113
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